The Coal Shed moves to new site on North Street

The Coal Shed moves to new site on North Street

Don’t judge a book by its cover, they say. Or, to put it another way – don’t judge a restaurant by its surrounds. The Coal Shed’s new quarters on North Street, in the heart of Brighton’s cheerfully scuzzy commercial centre, see it looking - from the outside at least - just a little awkward, a little uncomfortable, like Queen Margaret in a Bingo hall. Her Highness was previously to be found wowing discerning diners in the quaint, off-the-tourist track of Boyce’s street, but the new, larger Brighton branch opened this Autumn. Perhaps Black Rock Restaurants, of which Coal Shed is one (the Salt Shed is another) wanted more visibility, to match the bravado of Executive Chef Lee Murdoch’s new menu and the promise by founder Raz Helelat to “do things a bit differently round here”.

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That started with a buzzy vibe which belied its surrounds. A mix of couples, old and young, celebration groups, even a couple of families – always a good sign in an upmarket venue. We chose to start from a bravely unusual cocktail menu, with interesting twists on classics  – think Mandarin Whiskey Sour, Hibiscus Mai-Tai, and a Spiced Pear Daiquiri which perfectly balanced sublime Crème de Poire with lime, rum and demerara. The staff were numerous and attentive but also upbeat and jovial - in itself a tricky mix.

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Despite its fame for meat – the restaurant boasts its own salting shed, and offers steak by the (kilo) gram – I fancied fish, and had the audacity to bring a vegetarian. Looking at the menu of Porterhouse steak, Wagyu and Beef fat chips, we were a little apprehensive. We need not have been. The Watermelon Cerviche with sesame milk was one of the most delightful starters I have tasted anywhere; we followed this with the Acquerello Baked Rice, made with ‘mushroom master stock’ (no clue, but umami-ly delicious) and North Atlantic haddock with sea greens and capers. The rock aesthetic of the place is heavy and butch (Masters of Fire T-shirts for the staff, a dubious Ghetto Blaster print on the wall) but the dishes were in fact subtle and delicate, deeply satisfying without being cloying.

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To finish, our excellent server Jay solved our dessert dilemma by suggesting the Selection; of which all were very fine; the Medjool Date Cake and Burnt Lemon Pie were delightful even; the plate only lacked something a little tart, such as a physalis or two, or a fruit coulis, to balance the dark chocolate ‘Kiss at the Opera’ and churros.

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So, it turns out – not all gems are hidden – some of them, such as the Coal Shed, are right here on your high street.

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